Brogdale Orchards Ltd
Macknade Natural Garden Centre
Selling Road
Faversham
Kent
ME13 8XF

Email: info@brogdale.org

Tel: +44 (0)1795 858140
Fax: +44 (0)1795 531710


Brogdale Orchards Plant Centre
are now trading from:-
Mount Ephraim Gardens
Staple Street
Hernhill
Near Faversham
Kent
ME13 9TX

Tel: +44 (0)1795 858140
Email: plantcentre@btconnect.com

© 2006 Brogdale Horticultural Trust
all right reserved

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Tree Selection   Considerations when choosing a tree   Placement of Trees   Planting a Tree   Container grown trees   Planting Instructions   Maintenance Pruning Apples and Pears   Pruning   Spur Pruning Cycle   Renewal Pruning Cycle   Regulated Pruning Pruning Plums and Cherries   Espaliers and Fans   All Trained Trees   Renovating Old Trees

Tree Selection
Considerations when choosing a tree	As well as providing fruit, the tree will be decorative, can provide shelter, can act as a screen and sound barrier, provide shade and attract wildlife. Ensure the tree is appropriate for your area and use. Is it hardy enough and will it stand frosts? Will it flower or bear fruit when required? Remember that some varieties have ornamental value in their fruits and blossom. Be aware of micro-climates where weather conditions vary from normal. Take care if the site is north facing or windy, factors which will limit your choice. Consider the size and study possible rootstocks. Imagine the tree in twenty years.
Placement of Trees	This is very critical. Trees need distance between each other. Consider buildings and neighbouring property. When the tree nears maturity will it be too near to your house or other structures? Ensure other trees will not block sunshine and that the new tree in its turn will not shade vegetable or flower gardens.
Planting a Tree	A properly planted and maintained tree will grow faster and live longer than one that is incorrectly planted. Bare rooted trees have no soil on the roots and should be planted when they are dormant. To avoid drying out, the roots must be kept moist until planted, and should be planted as soon as possible upon arrival as long as the ground is not frozen or too wet. The planting season is generally through late winter until early spring, i.e. when the tree is dormant. Planting in frozen soil during winter is difficult and tough on the tree roots and equally, planting in hot summer weather should be avoided. Container grown trees can be successfully established in any season, including summer, and little damage should occur to the roots as the plant is transferred to the soil. With a potted tree, gently remove the tree from the container. Lay the tree on its side with the container end near the planting hole. Hit the bottom and sides of the container until the root ball is loosened. If roots are growing in a circular pattern around the root ball, slice through the roots on a couple of sides of the root ball. Gently separate circling roots on the root ball. Shorten exceptionally long roots and guide the shortened roots downward and outward. Carefully follow the planting instructions that come with your tree. Follow these tips: 1. Dig a hole twice as wide as, and slightly shallower than, the root ball. Roughen the sides and bottom of the hole with a pick or shovel so that roots can penetrate the soil. 2. Place the root ball in the hole. Leave the top of the root ball (where the roots end and the trunk begins) to 2 inches above the surrounding soil, so that the graft union is clearly visible above the earth making sure not to cover it unless roots are exposed. For bare root plants, make a mound of soil in the middle of the hole and spread plant roots out evenly on the mound. Do not set trees too deep. As you add soil to fill in around the tree lightly press the soil to collapse air pockets or add water to help settle the soil. Form a temporary water basin around the base of the tree to encourage water penetration and water thoroughly after planting. 3. A tree with a dry root ball cannot absorb water; if the root ball is extremely dry allow water to trickle with the soil. 4. Mulch around the tree even up to 3ft away. 5. Depending on the size of the tree and site conditions, staking may be beneficial. Staking supports the tree until its roots are well established. You should allow for some movement of the tree. 6. Rabbit guards should be put in place if rabbits and deer are present. 7. After trees are established remove any support wires. If these are not removed they can cut into the trunk and eventually kill the tree.
Maintenance	For the first year or two especially following one or two weeks of exceptionally hot or dry weather, watch your trees closely for signs of stress. If you see leaves wilting or hard, caked soil, water the trees well and slowly enough to allow the water to soak in. This will encourage deep root growth. Keep the area under the trees mulched. Pay attention to insect, disease and other problems, and take preventative action to mitigate these effects.

Pruning Apples and Pears Head back maiden tree to where you want the branches to form (usually 30 inches from the ground). If feathered maiden, select 4-5 good shoots and cut them back by half. 2nd Year Prune 3-5 of the best shoots back by half to an outward facing bud. If training a central leader tree, allow one shoot to grow vertically, cutting it so it grows the opposite way to the previous year. 3rd Year Cut leaders by half, any well placed laterals (side shoots) suitable for secondary branches cut back by half. Reduce all other side shoots to 4 buds to start spurs. With a central leader tree allow laterals to grow from branch framework, when fruit bud has formed cut back to fruit buds, once fruited cut back to a stub and start the 3 year cycle again (renewal pruning) If growing a pyramid, treat as for spur pruning. Pruning Winter pruning encourages growth. Summer pruning and tying down controls growth. Spur Pruning Cycle 1st winter cut lateral back to 4 buds. 2nd winter any growth from shoot cut back to two buds. 3rd winter cut back to fruit bud. After several years the spurs will need thinning out. Renewal Pruning Cycle 1st winter choose well placed laterals (not growing vertically or straight down) and leave un-pruned. 2nd winter prune back to fruit buds. 3rd winter prune lateral back to 1in stub. 4th winter choose a strong new lateral that has grown from the stub to start the cycle off again. If more than one lateral grows from the stub choose the best placed and remove any others. Regulated Pruning More suitable for tip bearers. Allow a full years growth before pruning. Keep the tree open any strong growing branches cut back to a lateral to encourage the shape of the tree. Prune back leaders by a third at the end of every season until the tree is shaped, then just tip or cut back to lateral. Laterals coming off main braches leave untouched until they become too crowded then thin out.

Plums and Cherries Follow the same pattern as apples and pears for the first two years but only cut the trees in spring and early summer (May-June). 2nd Year Cut main shoots back by half, any laterals back to six leaves and any regrowth back to one leaf.

Espaliers and Fans Cut maiden down to just above the first wire. Next summer train two shoots at 45° plus one vertically. Next year fans toe down main shoots horizontally and cut out vertical shoot. Espaliers, tie main shoots down horizontally to wire, cut vertical back to just above second wire and repeat process every year until the tree reaches the height required. Cordons plant at 45°, prune all side shoots longer than 4 inches to 3 buds.

All Trained Trees Summer prune last week of July – early August depending on season and which part of the country you are in. Cut all side shoots coming off main branches back to 3-4 leaves, any re-growth back to one leaf. If on a wall cut off any shoots growing towards the wall.

Renovating Old Trees Very often old trees that have been left un-pruned will create a multitude of problems. Trying to get them back in shape may take a period of 3-5 years. 1st Year Cut out all dead, diseased and damaged wood plus crossing braches and strong vertical growth (this can sometimes take up to 2 years). Do not remove all the above at the same time as a very old tree may not recover from the shock. Cut some verticals back to a side shoot or branch to encourage lateral growth maintaining the balance of the tree. 2nd Year Remove strong vertical water shoots coming from the previous years cuts. Thin out and cut back laterals and secondary branches coming off the main branches by a third to a half. Cut out any vertical growth, encourage well placed laterals and start a 3 year renewal pruning cycle or regulated pruning.

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